Quadra Island, B.C, CANADA – An Underwater Flight Through Strawberry Fields
Like Port Hardy (see article) Quadra Island diving is one of those dives you must dive before you die. The best image of diving here is to image a weightless flight along the cliffs of an alien planet completely covered with life in all the colors of the best tropical dives. A couple of our friends even had a playful argument about diving Palau vs. British Columbia with one fellow very insistent that diving British Columbia was by far the best. Both agree that it is a close race.
Our dive at Copper Wall (sunny and 60ft viz) was just one example of the astounding experience that awaits you on Quadra Island. The dive revealed amazing and large patches of strawberry anomies packed into bright fields of pink. The walls, which reached far into the depths, exposed all types, colors and sizes of anomies, urchins, tube worms, crabs, fish and stars. Others had the larger fish-eating anemones. Still others were covered with an array of bright orange and yellow social ascidians, peppered with abalones, rock and swimming scallops, and lingcod. Greenlings lounged in patches of deep purple tube worms the size of your arm. There were sponges and soft corals and jellies of every size making their slow undulations with the currents. There was literally no place on these walls that we could place a finger that was not covered with brilliant life. Approaching safety stop depth, we spread our arms and giddily “took flight,” in gently increasing current. We “rode the rails” of bull kelp stalks as those 3 minutes flew by. It was so grand that stretched out the “flowing stop” as long as we could.
(See the fine video below by Jim McGauhey)
DYNAMIKE
Dive sites around Quadra Island include the definitive “Row and Be Dammed” and the world famous Seymour Narrows. The Narrows regularly bloom with currents that are some of the strongest natural flows on earth. This area can generate whirlpools large enough to swallow a house. The Narrows were described by explorer Captain George Vancouver as one of the “vilest stretches of water in the world.” We can be sure he would have changed his tune in an instant if he could have had even a brief peek at the stunning splendor just beneath the surface. As you may guess from these descriptions, you should have excellent buoyancy skills and be comfortable diving in current before coming to Quadra.
The great secret of success to diving Quadra is diving with DynaMike Dive Charters (250-923-2851). Do whatever is necessary to book with the, now semi-retired, owner of DynaMike’s, Mike Richmond. He is nothing less than a high master of currents and of the dive sites here. It was both humbling and comforting watching Mike study the smallest surface ripples and swirls to pick the perfect second for us to splash. He nailed it perfectly every dive. I have never felt as safe with any dive charter.
Mike also designed both his custom dive boat and its cousin, the boat used by the other area dive charter, Abyssal Charters. Both stubby aluminum crafts are precision tailored for diving the Quadra sites. The boat is short and fast but still with plenty of room to prep and move around. Easy entry is via one of the four side openings just inches from the water surface. Return is via two open rung ladders at the rear. Each dive station is spaced between a lockable lid into the storage bin style bench seat. The lockers, combined with a unique curved T insert for your BCD, keep your gear secure between dives and overnight. There is net storage above the diver stations for cameras and masks and other storage areas if needed. Even with its current design being nearly perfect, Mike still has plans for subtle modifications to make it just a little better; because that is just the kind of guy he is.
The dive sites are all around a 15 min (or less) jaunt from the dock so there is no head on the boat. All dives are live boat. You return to shore immediately after each dive because the surface intervals are tidally spaced. It is rumored that Mike is so astute that he can tell each diver by their bubbles. He denies this, but he was always near at hand each time we surfaced.
Besides no head, you should also be aware that the island compressor is low pressure only and no nitrox.
On top of being an amazing captain, boat designer and dive master, Mike is a classic character. He is direct yet patient. He has quick and wry humor and seems to have an inappropriate joke appropriate for any situation. His quips were definitely not PC but also never offensive.
We did not personally dive with the other active charter and lodging service on Quadra, Abyssal Dive Charters. Abyssal’s Lodge (also built by Mike) is reportedly great and most reported that the food was excellent. However, everyone we interviewed who did have experience with Abyssal Charters was not completely positive or pleased, and some concerns were regarding safety.
GETTING THERE, STAYING THERE
Quadra Island and Quathiaski Cove (Just say Q cove, it is safer) is a brief 10 min. ferry ride (runs every hour) across the water from Campbell River, which is about 3.5 hours north of Victoria, B.C. on Vancouver Island. Quathiaski Cove is the quaint hub of the island and with natural beauty that cannot be overstated. There are tiny shops and restaurants dotting the landscape. For a small island there are surprisingly good food choices, including a vegetarian restaurant. Even the pub, “The Landing Pub”, just next to the marina and ferry dock, had amazing pub grub with organic green salads and the best yam fries we have ever tasted.
We stayed at the Whiskey Point Resort (http://www.whiskeypoint.com/ 1-250-285-2201) and found one of the best deals in dive lodging. This hotel is walking distance from the ferry and your dive charter. At first glance you may think it is just a standard hotel. But these rooms are extra clean and spacious, all have views of the cove; the service is very friendly and attentive; there are multiple outdoor decks and picnic tables, a pool, Jacuzzi, and special heated dive gear storage room; all at super price made better with a discount for those diving with DynaMike. The standard and king rooms all really demi-suites with sitting areas and mini kitchens with stove, microwave, sink, dishes and toaster. Our suit had a second full bedroom and was less than $100 US with the DynaMike discount. All other rooms are great deal even without the discount.